Belmont Abbey Holy Land pilgrimage

Retirement

2010-11-24T00:00:00.000-08:00

We have just returned from Dom Brendan's wonderful retreat "Nothing so beautiful" and it was so lovely to meet again Renata, Mary, Frances and others who went on the pilgrimage. How we wish we had known about the Syrian pilgrimage this year but we have had the joy of going to Oberammergau. I now have 5 more working days to retirement after 36 years as a librarian and a new chapter begins! We were also given the many photos that Carlos took and which we never received so I shall look at adding some of them to this blog! A further inspiration was Father Daniel O'Leary's talk last night at Westminster Cathedral hall.

To be a pilgrim - notes for spirituality day at Westminster Cathedral Hinsley room

2009-08-07T11:03:00.000-07:00

To be a pilgrim Aug 5 2009
Take: CDs, photos, photocopies, lighter, candles, display material, books, this sheet
Play Guide me O thou great redeemer during which everyone who wishes to lights a candle on the central table.
Welcome
Introductions and ask about pilgrimages undertaken or planned
Give out psalms sheet
Say together the 2 pilgrimage psalms (alternating verses) and the pilgrimage prayer we used on the Belmont Abbey Holy land pilgrimage

A pilgrim (lat. peregrinus) is one who undertakes a pilgrimage, literally 'far afield'. This is traditionally a visit to a place of some religious or historic significance; often a considerable distance is traveled. Examples include a Christian or Jew visiting Jerusalem or a Muslim visiting Mecca. No religion has laid greater stress on the duty of a pilgrim than Islam in the Hajj.
•

An Indian pilgrim in Gangasagar in West Bengal, India
Pilgrims are common in many religions, including the faiths in ancient Egypt, Persia in the Mithraic period, India, China, and Japan. The Greek and Roman custom of consulting the gods at local oracles, such as those at Dodona or Delphi, both in Greece, is widely known. In Greece, pilgrimages could either be personal, or state-sponsored.[1]
In the early period of Hebrew history, pilgrims traveled to Shiloh, Dan, Bethel, and eventually Jerusalem, leading the way for the other Abrahamic religions to include the practice. The great Islamic pilgrimage to Mecca (now in Saudi Arabia), is obligatory for every able Muslim, and other Islamic devotional pilgrimages, particularly to the tombs of saints, are numerous. The early Christians made pilgrimages to the scenes of the Passion of Christ in Jerusalem. Even after Jerusalem had been occupied by the Saracens, the liberty of pilgrimage, on payment of a tax, was secured by treaty; the necessity of protecting pilgrims, however, gave rise to the medieval military orders, such as the Knights Templar.
While religious pilgrims usually travel toward a singular destination, a physical location is not a necessity. One group of pilgrims in early Celtic Christianity were the Peregrinari Pro Christ, (Pilgrims for Christ), or "white martyrs," where pilgrims left with the intent to wander.[2] This sort of pilgrimage was an ascetic religious practice, leaving home and the clan for an unknown destination, in complete trust of Divine Providence. These travels often resulted in the founding of new abbeys and spreading Christianity among the pagan population in Britain as well as on continental Europe.
The idea of the day is to look at where you are on your pilgrimage. Do you know the destination? How close do you find yourself to that destination? I want to include some movement in the day. There will be silent meditation at 12.30, lunch and then another talk at 2 with a long break and gathering for tea at 3.30 and finish at 4.15.
You can undertake a pilgrimage without leaving your home. Reading, praying, thinking, imagining. But essentially a journey is involved. Takes you out of routine.
Very ancient – Stonehenge, standing stones on Orkney, Greeks, Asia. In the Bible we find many journeys but little use of the word pilgrim. Abraham, Moses and the Exodus, Babylonian exile, the return to Jerusalem. Our Lord and his family travelling to Jerusalem every year and using the psalms we have just said – these psalms were said at the start and end of the pilgrimage and Our Lord would have sing them on the night of his Passion.
Many Christian sites – Holy Land, Turkey, Greece, Canterbury, Walsingham, Rome, Santiago da Comastella, Lourdes, Fatima, Medjugore. Marian emphasis.
I also want to mention going backwards like visiting my old school and visiting my headmaster. The unexpected. Being a cultural pilgrim – Elgar’s birthplace, Dickens’s home. Shakespeare.
But this morning I’d like to focus on Mt Sinai. Anticipation, expectations, difficulties. Camel, money, night time, falling over, being helped and then alone but not alone, reaching the top alone, being reunited, stumbling down the hill, exhaustion, St Catherine’s. Physical rather than spiritual.
The spiritual uplift comes later – achieved climbing the mountain, reflection on the readings.
Sharing the experience – mention Ross Kempsell and his pilgrimage. Life changing experiences. Life can never be the same again.
Spiritual high points – glimpses of Heaven. Colin Mawby Ave verum, Archbishop Nichols, Truro. On the other hand Rome during Holy Year!
Use Benedictine chant to introduce meditiation for 20 minutes, Michael Main prayer card.
2 p.m. Welcome newcomers and do brief summary of morning session.
Play Who would true valour see
Focus on Jerusalem.
Pass round photos of Stations and talk about the experience – carrying the cross in the cathedral, being moved. The Via Dolorosa where 4 people each took turns to carry the cross was most moving - unexpectedly so. I have so often been the crucifer but here the weight of the wood on my shoulder bore down on me. And the people just carry on their busy lives in the bazaar just as they did on the first Good Friday! It was helpful to have the Taize chant to keep our concentration as we moved from station to station. At one there were some very noisy kids in a house nearby. At Calvary in the church of the Holy Sepulchre I read the passage about Jesus dying and Liz read the 14th station at the tomb. We queued up to venerate at Calvary and a German party pushed in and were very rude to Dom Brendan who said this was a holy place to no avail. We had an excellent pizza near the 3rd station and Liz was invited to see the chapel there. We went to the convent church of Ecce Homo to see the Antonine fortress pavement with games played by the Roman soldiers.
Then go on to the church of the Holy sepulchre mass and communion in the Calvary chapel where stations ended. Early morning, organ bursting forth, a moment of great faith. Sunday November 16th. 4.15 a.m. wake up call. We walked from the Jaffa Gate through the nearly deserted bazaar to the Holy Sepulchre church where we had 30 minutes to look around. The Copts were praying and at 5.30 a.m. the Franciscans began a Latin Mass with organ near the tomb. This church seems to symbolise the terrible divisions in Christianity. I have been often asked about evidence of this division and we did see a chapel which had been burnt out in fighting. The key to this mighty building is held by a Muslim family. Many Protestants find the Garden tomb gives them a better idea of the Resurrection scene but this church has to be seen when filled with liturgy. Our mass at 6 a.m. in the Calvary chapel was a high point of the whole journey. Just as we received communion the organ swelled to its full glory! It was a moment of great faith - He is risen! After Mass we were advised to go straight to the tomb as the daytime queue usually has at least a 2 hour wait. The Copts pulled me back from passing their tent-like chapel tacked on the back of the 19th century tomb. The tomb itself is strangely moving. We saw Revd Beverley Mason and friends from St John's, Upper Norwood doing the stations!

Bunyan Pilgrim’s progress – reaching the other side, all the trumpets, Remembrance Day. Laying down the burden.
After this it was noised abroad that Mr. Valiant-for-truth was taken with a Summons by the same Post as the other, and had this for a Token that the Summons was true, That his pitcher was broken at the Fountain. When he understood it, he called for his Friends, and told them of it. Then said he, I am going to my Fathers, and tho’ with great difficulty I am got hither, yet now I do not repent me of all the Trouble I have been at to arrive where I am. My Sword I give to him that shall succeed me in my Pilgrimage, and my Courage and my Skill to him that can get it. My Marks and Scars I carry with me, to be a witness for me that I have fought his Battles who now will be my Rewarder. When the day that he must go hence was come, many accompanied him to the River-side, into which as he went he said, Death, where is thy Sting? And as he went down deeper he said, Grave, where is thy Victory? So he passed over, and all the Trumpets sounded for him on the other side.
— John Bunyan, Pilgrims Progress
Bring us, O Lord God,
at our last awakening into the house and gate of heaven,
to enter into that gate and dwell in that house,
where there shall be no darkness nor dazzling, but one equal light;
no noise nor silence, but one equal music;
no fears nor hopes, but one equal possession;
no ends nor beginnings, but one equal eternity;
in the habitations of Thy glory and dominion world without end.
- John Donne

Give out sheets and introduce prayer walk. Mention books, cards and not taking them away! Also the items to read. Keep silence in room.
Gather at 3.30
Pass round bookmark and talk about the window Praise , Hands that flung stars into space, the day thou gavest. Play end of Dream of Gerontius and mention Dom Alan Rees.

Sharing time
End with the pilgrim’s prayer and the psalms

Articles

2009-07-19T18:54:00.000-07:00

Article 1 has appeared in Society of St Gregory magazine "Music and liturgy". On August 5th I am leading a day on "To be a pilgrim" - suggestions welcomed!

Easter Day

2009-04-11T22:17:00.000-07:00

Early on Easter Day I think about the early morning Mass in the Calvary chapel on Sunday morning and the final Mass beside the Sea of Galilee. "Go out in to the whole world and preach the gospel". The Stations yesterday brought back the Via Dolorosa. Over and over again as we hear of places one can see it in the mind's eye and remember. How blessed and fortunate we have been! Let us continue to share that Easter joy! Happy Easter!

Soli Deo Gloria

2009-01-21T10:50:00.000-08:00

El Al air hostess landing
This blog has now become the basis of four articles offered to the editors of St Andrew's Coulsdon magazine, Oremus the Westminster Cathedral magazine and Music and Liturgy, the Society of St Gregory magazine.
When we reached Tel Aviv airport having risen very early, we found that Liz's name was not on the flight list because the group had been changed from the previous day. However she did fly and we were able to sit together whereas other couples got split up!
Thanks be to God - achieved is the glorious work!

Galilee

2009-01-21T04:58:00.000-08:00

Druse breadmaking, pomegranates, Kursi, weapons made into sculpture, signs on the mountain top, St Peter's fish, Mass at Caesarea Philippi, Mass at Sea of Galilee, closed swimming pool, Macdonalds!, Caesarea Maritima, Jaffa, bride
Wednesday November 19th. At Kursi we saw the 5th century monastic church and an oil press. There is a fine mosaic of birds and baskets of fruit. It is from the carob seed that we get the weight of a carob. Sister Monica was invited to turn a large metal object which left a message in the sand! This site is near where the Gadarene swine ran into the lake. On this day Shimon Perez was knighted and we passed the Perez centre for peace on the way to the Golan heights on the Syrian border. From Mount Herizim we were able to explore the old fortifications and look out over Syria and Lebanon. Parties of school children are accompanied by armed guards. The Druse are famously courageous with no fear of death and they trace their faith back to Jethro, the father-in-law of Moses. They have great respect for women and believe in one God and immediate reincarnation. At a Druse village we bought pomegranate jam and syrup and bread to be used later at Mass at Caesarea Philippi below Mount Hermon.
We enjoyed a lunch of St Peter's fish. We passed the spring of the Jordan river at Dan kibbutz and visited Domus Galilae where 25 students of the Neo-Catechumenate Way study. We were intrigued to see the Word kept with the Blessed Sacrament and in the library the Torah and Bible displayed together.
On Thursday November 20th our pilgrimage ended with a final Mass overlooking the Sea of Galilee. I sang the psalm "Go out to the whole world".We then had a long drive to Caesarea Maritima which has a fine hippodrome and reconstructed theatre overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. We visited St Peter's church, Jaffa and saw lots of brides being photographed! And so we flew home from Tel Aviv on the Friday after a wonderful experience!
The liturgies throughout the journey were enhanced by a booklet containing great hymns and the use of psalm and Mass settings by the late Dom Alan Rees and a Gregorian chant setting. These were familiar to those who attend Belmont Abbey liturgies and easy to learn. We were blessed by wonderful homilies from Dom Brendan Thomas. Deacon Andrew Morton served at all the Masses. Mary Carroll played the keyboard and various organs and all were encouraged to act as readers, intercessors and cantors.

Dom Brendan Thomas

2009-01-16T16:33:00.001-08:00

Dom Brendan likes this blog and is looking into a link to the Belmont Abbey website!

Nazareth

2009-01-14T15:07:00.000-08:00

Tuesday November 18th to Nazareth. 30% Christian whereas Cana is 97% Muslim. Nazareth is the largest Arab city in Israel and now controlled by communists. There are 300,000 Catholics in Israel, Jordan and Cyprus diocese. The Orthodox decided angels are male so they say Gabriel did not enter the house. Mass in St Joseph's church and Liz sang the psalm very well accompanied by harmonium. This church has the most sentimental 19th century picture of the young Jesus in the carpenter's shop I have ever seen. He does not look capable of lifting a nail let alone a hammer! The priest chased us to finish within the half hour so we lost the last hymn "Tell out my soul"! The Church of the Annunciation is enormous and OTT. It would overwhelm Mary. Some of it is kitsch, but the main doors are interesting with biblical scenes. We walked through the market and saw a carpenter's shop, bakery and kitchen utensils in bazaar. The synagogue church is Greek Catholic and we heard my favourite reading from Luke "The spirit of the Lord is upon me". To Arab Orthodox church at Mary's well. We lit candles and there was chanting. To Cana with a lovely courtyard of the Greek Orthodox church with a beautiful fountain and frescoes. Renewed marriage vows in the Catholic church. Saw the closed church of St Nathaniel/Bartholomew. Had lunch in cafe at Cana. To Zippori Sepphoris. Ancient 5th century synagogue with mosaic floor showing zodiac and months. The Sun Helios and the 4 seasons in the mosaic. At the Nile house there are fine mosaics showing centaur and hunters and Amazons. Saw the lovely Mona Lisa of Israel mosaic. Crazy that the swimming pool at the kibbutz is closed and the sea shore is muddy and rocky so swimming impossible. Had a nice dinner and sat on our balcony reading.

2001

2009-01-03T05:55:00.000-08:00

On the left of this page you will find a link to the 2001 Belmont Abbey pilgrimage news. How little things have changed! Dom Brendan gives a wonderful sermon there about Zaccheas and how all Jews, Muslims and Christians ought to greet each other as a son or daughter of Abraham. What a difference that would make! The situation in Gaza is now very serious. At least we were able to visit Jericho and Palestinian areas. This is after all why we went on the pilgrimage. Cardinal Cormac Murphy O'Connor had urged us to visit Bethlehem. We were so fortunate that Dom Brendan had arranged such a comprehensive journey so we followed Abraham, Moses, Joshua, Elijah, John the Baptist, Jesus, Peter, Paul - so many different strands interwoven so well. The book he gave us "The Holy Land a pilgrim's companion" by David Baldwin proved invaluable and so did the booklet covering all the liturgies packed full of great hymns not least the Welsh ones! The Cardinal has since signed our copies of the book.
Watching Howard Jacobson on Christianity on channel 4 when he comments that Christians deny their Jewish heritage one certainly could not say that about this journey!In fact the encounters with Jews, Druze and Muslims were fascinating and enlightening!

Tiberias, Jesusboat, Tabgha, Bethsaida, Capernaum

2009-01-03T03:19:00.000-08:00

Monday 17th November. A glorious day on the Sea of Galilee! From Tiberias we took the "Jesusboat" across the lake with lots of singing and dancing. "Dear Lord and Father of mankind" was our theme and we enjoyed some Israeli folk tunes as well. The Union Jack had to be hoisted again as it was upside down and Miriam remarked on how different nationalities treat the playing of the National anthem. The British either sing or laugh, the Italians don't know theirs! Had a break at the coffee shop attached to the ancient boat museum. To Tabgha where there are 7 springs and the lovely ancient mosaic of the loaves and fishes. We had a wonderful Mass in the garden of the Church of the Beatitudes with an excellent homily. Interesting point about the number of baskets left after the feeding of thousands - 12 is Israel, 7 is Gentiles i.e. the Decapolis on which side of the lake (Northern) we are staying. We had a picnic at Bethsaida next to the river Jordan and visited the ruins of the town where Peter, Andrew and Philip were born. There are a winegrower's house, 1st century AD street and a fisherman's house. We visited the church of St Peter's Primacy where I met Fr Francis Moran, the parish priest of Thornton Heath, Croydon! Next door we had silent meditation at Mensa Christi, Dolgatha next to the lake - a hyrax (coney) was sunning itself as we arrived! At Capernaum we saw the ruined synagogue and a modern church over Peter's house. Lovely sunset.

Holy Sepulchre, Jericho, Mount Tabor

2009-01-02T14:13:00.000-08:00

Sunday November 16th. 4.15 a.m. wake up call. We walked from the Jaffa Gate through the nearly deserted bazaar to the Holy Sepulchre church where we had 30 minutes to look around. The Copts were praying and at 5.30 a.m. the Franciscans began a Latin Mass with organ near the tomb. This church seems to symbolise the terrible divisions in Christianity. I have been often asked about evidence of this division and we did see a chapel which had been burnt out in fighting. The key to this mighty building is held by a Muslim family. Many Protestants find the Garden tomb gives them a better idea of the Resurrection scene but this church has to be seen when filled with liturgy. Our mass at 6 a.m. in the Calvary chapel was a high point of the whole journey. Just as we received communion the organ swelled to its full glory! It was a moment of great faith - He is risen! After Mass we were advised to go straight to the tomb as the daytime queue usually has at least a 2 hour wait. The Copts pulled me back from passing their tent-like chapel tacked on the back of the 19th century tomb. The tomb itself is strangely moving. We saw Revd Beverley Mason and friends from St John's, Upper Norwood doing the stations! We walked back through the Jewish quarter past the St John hospital site. We placed our prayers in the Western wall (wailing wall). After breakfast when we celebrated Basil's 77th birthday we left for Jericho stopping for a last view of the city from the Mount of Olives.
At Bethany we visited the Catholic church of St Lazarus with fine Resurrection mosaics and the tomb of Lazarus which now part of a mosque as Lazarus is venerated as a prophet by Muslims. We left Miriam at the desert service station point and picked up a Palestinian guide for Jericho.
The cable car at Jericho is entirely below sea level. From the top walked up the Greek Orthodox monastery where there is one monk. Had lunch and saw the Zaccheus tree(not a sycamore!) The tel here was excavated by Kathleen Kenyon and there are 23 layers making it probably the oldest city in the world. We travelled up the Jordan valley to Nain and then took taxis to the top of Mount Tabor. A lovely church with chapels for Elijah and Moses commemorating the transfiguration.Staying at Maagan hotel connected to a kibbutz on the Sea of Galilee.

St George's cathedral, Gethsamene, St Peter in Gallicantu and Mount Zion

2009-01-02T11:14:00.000-08:00

St George's and organ, Garden tomb sign, St Stephen's, Gethsamene, St Peter Gallicantu and model of the city, Mount Zion, statue of David, Dormition abbey
Saturday 15th November. We had a morning off so set off for a walk from the hotel to St George's Anglican cathedral where I worshipped during Holy Week 1972. There is now a very fine Rieger organ and we were delighted to find embroidered hassocks from Coulsdon (St Andrew and St Francis) and Croydon. There is a very nice pilgrim house. The Garden Tomb is much bigger than I remember with a winepress. Nearby we found St Stephen's basilica and a Dominican Mass with organ in progress. This could be the site of Stephen's martyrdom. To the Church of All Nations, Gethsamane which was very crowded and a Brazilian Mass in progress. Nearby is the Tomb of Mary and the Betrayal grotto and olive press. Maranatha tours treated us to a Middle Eastern lunch after all our problems about hotels and cash! It was delicious but there was far too much to eat! To Mass at St Peter in Gallicantu. The church commemorates Peter's betrayal and the cock is seen as the weathervane of this fine church. The batteries in the keyboard failed so Liz sang the psalm unaccompanied. It was her birthday and the group gave her a lovely card and keyring. We descended to the prison below the church but it was too crowded and busy for us to go into the dungeon where Christ may have been held. This could have been the house of Caiaphas and the steps are certainly from the period. In 1972 we walked down them in the dark on Maundy Thursday going to Gethsamane led by Bishop George Appleton. We overlooked the possible site of the pool of Siloam which is where the baptisms at the first Pentecost probably took place. An interesting model of the city. To the Cenacle (Upper Room) which now a mosque in the middle of a Jewish diaspora school! Pope Benedict wants it back which is odd as it is not authentic! To the Dormition abbey Mount Zion for nice cup of tea and vespers in German. Fr Josef greeted us very warmly. The organ was well played if rather chromatic. Much mention of kings in the psalmody perhaps because the Kaiser founded the monastery. The community is young and growing and the abbot is only 38. Lay people sat with the monks in the apse.

Jerusalem - Via Dolorosa and Ein Karem.

2009-01-01T14:24:00.000-08:00

Friday. To the Temple excavations where we saw helpful films. The street is Herodian and we saw the steps to the temple where Jesus and Paul were. At St Anne' church (Crusader) we saw the "birthplace of Mary". The Pool of Bethesda was poorly excavated. The Via Dolorosa where 4 people each took turns to carry the cross was most moving - unexpectedly so. I have so often been the crucifer but here the weight of the wood on my shoulder bore down on me. And the people just carry on their busy lives in the bazaar just as they did on the first Good Friday! It was helpful to have the Taize chant to keep our concentration as we moved from station to station. At one there were some very noisy kids in a house nearby. At Calvary in the church of the Holy Sepulchre I read the passage about Jesus dying and Liz read the 14th station at the tomb. We queued up to venerate at Calvary and a German party pushed in and were very rude to Dom Brendan who said this was a holy place to no avail. We had an excellent pizza near the 3rd station and Liz was invited to see the chapel there. We went to Ecce Homo to see the Antonine fortress pavement with games played by the Roman soldiers. I played the organ at Mass- it was a split manual electronic with toothpick pedals. Carlos disappeared but made his way back to the hotel!
To Ein Karem - the beautiful church of the Visitation on the hill with lovely frescoes and a wall of Magnificats in many languages. The Church of John the Baptist has horrid tiles and grotto of the "birthplace" but I liked the walls of Benedictus in different languages. I bought a card of the Benedictus and Liz got a cross. We had pistacchio ice cream. In the late evening we returned to the garden of the Church of All Nations for silent meditation among the ancient olive trees. We were fortunate not to be able to go into the church!

Bethlehem

2008-12-31T02:43:00.000-08:00

Bethlehem scenes, Shepherd's fields, Hebron, monk at Abu Ghosh in the crypt and organ and fresco in the church.
Thursday Nov 13th. To Bethlehem passing through the appalling wall which is unfinished but causes so much suffering and many people have left Bethlehem. To Church of the Nativity through the little door. It is a Greek Orthodox and Armenian building. We descended to the grotto to see the star at the "birthplace" and manger. Saw a beautiful Armenian thurible and mosaics under the floor. The adjoining chapel is Catholic and has statues of Jerome who lived here and St George. To Mass in a cave at Shepherd's Fields. The 1954 church has fine paintings and bells.
To Hebron to visit the graves of the patriarchs in a synagogue. The adjoining mosque was closed. Security was tight. The tombs of Abraham, Jacob, Leah and Rachel. This was a building originally built by Herod the Great, then it became a crusader church and now 2 mosques with a synagogue within it! The Palestinian authority is divided into A,B and C areas. A is Palestinian authority, B and C controlled by Israeli army. Israelis cannot go into A. There are conservative Jews living in Qiryat Arba who cause trouble. On return to Bethlehem we were pleased to be able to spend travellers cheques and cash on lots of gifts and have lunch. We were very warmly welcomed.
At Abu Ghosh which is one of 4 possible Emmaus sites we went to Vespers in French in a Crusader church above a spring given to the 10th legion by Vespasian. Lovely frescoes.

Mount of Olives

2008-12-30T15:07:00.000-08:00

Dead Sea and hotel pool, Qumran, Benedictine chapel and icon, Pater noster church wall, Dominus flevit church.
Wed Nov 12th. Liz went in the Dead Sea again while I swam 10 lengths of the pool. It took 2 hours to cross back into Israel over the Allenby bridge. At Qumran we watched a film and Miriam took us on a tour. The coach is uncomfortable although the driver is cheerful! At the Mount of Olives we celebrated Mass at the Benedictine French convent. A horrid organ but lovely icons and chapel. The Pater Noster church is famous for the many versions of the Lord's prayer and we went into the cave over which Constantine ordered a church to be built. Liz slipped over as the road was wet from some rain. We visited the lovely Dominus flevit church built in the shape of a teardrop - it commemorates Jesus weeping over Jerusalem. We are staying at the Ritz hotel which is in the Palestinian part of Jerusalem conveniently close to the Old city. The hotel was closed for some years but has been refurbished.

Dead Sea swim, Bethany beyond Jordan, Anjara, Jerash - a day about water!

2008-12-26T23:37:00.000-08:00

Dead Sea swim, Bethany beyond Jordan Greek Orthodox church and Jordan water, Elijah, Baptist, camels on the road, Our Lady of Anjara, Jerash hippodrome, roundabout and theatre
Tuesday 11/11 Up early to float in the Dead Sea and swim in the 25 metre pool which was cold at first. We passed the arch marking where the Pope celebrated Mass in 2000 near the hill where ELijah ascended to heaven. We were entering a sensitive area with added security. Here Joshua crossed the Jordan and John the Baptist is thought to have baptised Jesus. www.baptismsite.com. The archaeologist in charge gave us an animated explanation of the steps down to a 7th century cruciform baptistery next to a stream running into the Jordan. Fine icons of Elijah, the Baptist and Jerome in the Greek Orthodox church which has a distinctive golden dome. The book of Numbers is important and has been linked to the 42 tels or stations of Moses (see Origen) and the 7 songs of songs which are linked to Lydias. To Mass at the shrine of Our Lady of Anjara (Gilead birthplace of Elijah). I sang the psalm at Mass. The church has a unique apse featuring the Last Supper and Pentecost. The paintings show Joseph's dream and the finding of the boy Jesus in the temple.
To Jerash rebuilt in the 2nd century A.D. by Hadrian. The smallest Roman race track in the Middle East - the hippodrome seated 15000. From the roundabout the cardo maximus (main street) has sidewalks behind columns. Altar of Jupiter near to the theatre where we enjoyed pipes and drums.The actors in the theatre did not speak and women were not allowed. An interpreter explained the action from the floor hence the perfect acoustic. We drove through Amman at night and Naj talked about the Royal Jordanian institute for interfaith. We returned to our spa hotel where the food was excellent.

Madaba, Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea - a day of mosaics and icons

2008-12-26T23:13:00.000-08:00

Madaba map, St George, Baptism painting, Mount Nebo, mosaic workshop, sunset over the Dead Sea, the intrepid photographer, exhausted pilgrim!
Monday Nov 10th. A long drive to Madaba during which Naj explained Jordanian history and politics. He commented that Muslim women do not wear the veil at Mecca so why wear it at all. The Madaba mosaic map is 6th century AD. The Nile is shown in the wrong direction. Figures were changed during the iconoclastic period but not the gazelle which represents a Christian. Christ as fish. Lovely icons in the 19th century Orthodox church of St George.
An interesting apse Christ not the Pantocreator. A very good lunch.
The view from Mount Nebo was hazy. An excellent museum and this site is Vatican approved - the late Pope visited it in 2000. Mass with lovely Franciscan chalice and vestments. Dom Brendan is helping us trace the exodus of the Israelites from Egypt to the Promised Land. Here Moses saw the Promised Land but was not allowed to cross the Jordan. To a handicapped mosaic workshop. A lovely sunset over the Dead Sea before reaching our spa hotel.

Details in Petra

2008-12-17T04:17:00.001-08:00

Tree in the canyon, details of the Treasury, tombs

Petra

2008-12-17T03:48:00.000-08:00

Naj, Guard, niche in canyon, first viee of Treasury, church, mosaic, baptistery, weary pilgrims!
Sunday Nov 9th Naj our excellent guide promised a 5 mile walk around Petra and this sounded daunting but in fact it was relatively flat. We decided not to go on horse, camel or bouncy carriage! There is quite a long walk through the canyon to reach the city and an added touch were the Nabatean "guards". The Nabateans were very successful traders throughout the region and they used Aramaic. There are 4 different kinds of tomb - tower, localis, obelisk and royal. Water was crucial to the city and there is a water course through the canyon and reservoirs nearby. It was built between 7th century B.C. to 1st century A.D. You actually descend 1000 feet from the canyon entrance to the treasury so water could flow down to the city. Caravans did not come through the canyon as it is too narrow in places. From 63 B.C. to 106 A.D. the Romans were in the area and eventually they conquered the hidden city in 106 A.D. By the 4th century A.D. there was a bishop and the Romans left in the 7th century A.D. In the 12th century Crusader castles were built. 13th century Muslims occupied and in the 18th century Bedouins started using the tombs as homes. In 1812 Johann Burckhardt came disguised as an Arab.
As we neared the city, all those who had not been before formed up as an "army" with our backs to the entrance and moved into position to turn and see the first stunning view of the Treasury. This was built in the 1st century B.C. It has a Greek urn at the top and Alexandrian capitals. There are 4 eagles, 6 Amazon figures and Isis.
We saw also the entrances to the Royal tombs and tombs for the poor. The unfinished Palace tomb became a church. We followed the Roman road to the market and enjoyed a good lunch together. The 4th century Byzantine church has fine mosaics and one of the largest baptisteries in the East.
In the evening we had Mass in the hotel meeting room - another excellent homily. At dinner we enjoyed white wine of the Holy Land with Anne and Brian from Milford Haven.

St Catherine's monastery, Sinai and Mass in a Bedouin tent

2008-12-07T12:52:00.000-08:00

The monastery and burning bush, Mass in the bedouin "tent", crossing the Red Sea to Aqaba.
The visit to the monastery was disappointing. Honestly we were so tired and it was so crowded that we could not appreciate it. The church seemed dingy but we did see the bush which is said to be the burning bush. There was a charge to see the best icons so we skipped that. Went back to the hotel for a shower -no time to swim in the large pool. To mass in a Bedouin "tent" - actually a tea place beside the road. Greta homily by Fr Brendan and the Bedouin kids were fascinated. To get the boat to delightful looking Aqaba and a very pleasant crossing of the Red Sea in our own boat then coach to Petra. Hotel would not change traveller's cheque or the room so I hit the roof. the room was 40 steps down, no view, phone not plugged in, faults in bathroom, no plug, no kettle (we could have brought our own). I was fed up and told Fr Brendan I did not wish to borrow any more cash. We had a nice dinner but were very tired.

Mount Sinai

2008-12-07T12:46:00.000-08:00

Preparing to go, the sun rises and the wonderful mountains, a camel.
Saturday 8th November we rose at 1 a.m. and bear in mind we had travelled and been delayed. There was coffee and then a coach to St Catherine's monastery. A walk in the dark to get on a camel which appeared to go a different way to those on foot. After getting off the camel I fell over. Then 750 steps up rocks to the top and a Bedouin helped me. I paid him £10 but without him I would not have reached the top. The result was that I was separated from Liz who was told I had had help to go down! I saw the sunrise which was greeted by some Austrians singing "Fairest Lord Jesus" and much noise! A long walk down and was reunited with Liz. My guide proved to be a young man - I had thought he was older. He asked me for my flashlight but I said I needed it! I fell again on the loose shale and we picked our way down to the monastery. It was exhausting. I had thought this would be a spiritual experience but in fact it was a physical endurance test. After all I have never climbed a mountain. The camel ride was quite exciting under the stars if a little scary! It also goes to prove that the spirit may be willing but the flesh is weak and there are times when one must accept help!

The pilgrimage

2008-12-02T14:47:00.000-08:00

The wilderness,
entrance to Beersheva, platform overlooking Tel Beersheva, Mass at Avdat and camel train at Avdat (made of metal) Mary playing the keyboard at Mass,
This is an unofficial blog chronicling the Belmont Abbey 15 day pilgrimage led by Dom Brendan Thomas in 2008. Liz and I joined the group at Heathrow on Thursday November 6th, as most of the group of 36 had travelled from Hereford by coach. The El Al security procedures were stringent but efficient and Maranatha tours reps were on hand to greet us and give us our badges (which kept falling off!). Dom Brendan presented us with our booklets and we immediately noted some favourite hymns. Our flight was a little delayed and lasted just over 5 hours to Tel Aviv. There we were delayed as Renata's case had gone missing. Alas we did not cash traveller's cheques at the airport as we knew we would be going into Egypt. The information we had been given should have said that hard currency not traveller's cheques was needed. We handed over British currency to Ray who was handling the tips and donations and we wished we had held onto it. In the end we borrowed from 4 people! Our coach took us to the Beersheva hotel where we were welcomed with drinks and snacks. First surprise swimming pools closed since September! Saturday 8th we were up early for a hearty breakfast and a visit to old Beersheva ruins with a panoramic view towards the new city, There we saw the well outside the gate and descended into a water storage cistern dating back to 2000 BC. Abraham's well was here and the trade through here was important for Solomon. We celebrated mass at Avdat in a Byzantine church in the Nabotean fortress. Then the long drive down to Eilat.On the way we had views over the wilderness where the Israelites wandered for 40 years. No wonder - every hill looks like the next one! At Eilat on the Red Sea we crossed the border into Egypt literally carrying our luggage across No Man's Land! I visited Eilat in 1972 and there was hardly anything there - now it has many hotels and spots to go diving! On to another coach and another long drive into the Sinai desert. Dinner was not impressive and the room very basic.