Bethlehem

Bethlehem scenes, Shepherd's fields, Hebron, monk at Abu Ghosh in the crypt and organ and fresco in the church.
Thursday Nov 13th. To Bethlehem passing through the appalling wall which is unfinished but causes so much suffering and many people have left Bethlehem. To Church of the Nativity through the little door. It is a Greek Orthodox and Armenian building. We descended to the grotto to see the star at the "birthplace" and manger. Saw a beautiful Armenian thurible and mosaics under the floor. The adjoining chapel is Catholic and has statues of Jerome who lived here and St George. To Mass in a cave at Shepherd's Fields. The 1954 church has fine paintings and bells.
To Hebron to visit the graves of the patriarchs in a synagogue. The adjoining mosque was closed. Security was tight. The tombs of Abraham, Jacob, Leah and Rachel. This was a building originally built by Herod the Great, then it became a crusader church and now 2 mosques with a synagogue within it! The Palestinian authority is divided into A,B and C areas. A is Palestinian authority, B and C controlled by Israeli army. Israelis cannot go into A. There are conservative Jews living in Qiryat Arba who cause trouble. On return to Bethlehem we were pleased to be able to spend travellers cheques and cash on lots of gifts and have lunch. We were very warmly welcomed.
At Abu Ghosh which is one of 4 possible Emmaus sites we went to Vespers in French in a Crusader church above a spring given to the 10th legion by Vespasian. Lovely frescoes.

Mount of Olives

Dead Sea and hotel pool, Qumran, Benedictine chapel and icon, Pater noster church wall, Dominus flevit church.
Wed Nov 12th. Liz went in the Dead Sea again while I swam 10 lengths of the pool. It took 2 hours to cross back into Israel over the Allenby bridge. At Qumran we watched a film and Miriam took us on a tour. The coach is uncomfortable although the driver is cheerful! At the Mount of Olives we celebrated Mass at the Benedictine French convent. A horrid organ but lovely icons and chapel. The Pater Noster church is famous for the many versions of the Lord's prayer and we went into the cave over which Constantine ordered a church to be built. Liz slipped over as the road was wet from some rain. We visited the lovely Dominus flevit church built in the shape of a teardrop - it commemorates Jesus weeping over Jerusalem. We are staying at the Ritz hotel which is in the Palestinian part of Jerusalem conveniently close to the Old city. The hotel was closed for some years but has been refurbished.

Dead Sea swim, Bethany beyond Jordan, Anjara, Jerash - a day about water!

Dead Sea swim, Bethany beyond Jordan Greek Orthodox church and Jordan water, Elijah, Baptist, camels on the road, Our Lady of Anjara, Jerash hippodrome, roundabout and theatre
Tuesday 11/11 Up early to float in the Dead Sea and swim in the 25 metre pool which was cold at first. We passed the arch marking where the Pope celebrated Mass in 2000 near the hill where ELijah ascended to heaven. We were entering a sensitive area with added security. Here Joshua crossed the Jordan and John the Baptist is thought to have baptised Jesus. www.baptismsite.com. The archaeologist in charge gave us an animated explanation of the steps down to a 7th century cruciform baptistery next to a stream running into the Jordan. Fine icons of Elijah, the Baptist and Jerome in the Greek Orthodox church which has a distinctive golden dome. The book of Numbers is important and has been linked to the 42 tels or stations of Moses (see Origen) and the 7 songs of songs which are linked to Lydias. To Mass at the shrine of Our Lady of Anjara (Gilead birthplace of Elijah). I sang the psalm at Mass. The church has a unique apse featuring the Last Supper and Pentecost. The paintings show Joseph's dream and the finding of the boy Jesus in the temple.
To Jerash rebuilt in the 2nd century A.D. by Hadrian. The smallest Roman race track in the Middle East - the hippodrome seated 15000. From the roundabout the cardo maximus (main street) has sidewalks behind columns. Altar of Jupiter near to the theatre where we enjoyed pipes and drums.The actors in the theatre did not speak and women were not allowed. An interpreter explained the action from the floor hence the perfect acoustic. We drove through Amman at night and Naj talked about the Royal Jordanian institute for interfaith. We returned to our spa hotel where the food was excellent.

Madaba, Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea - a day of mosaics and icons

Madaba map, St George, Baptism painting, Mount Nebo, mosaic workshop, sunset over the Dead Sea, the intrepid photographer, exhausted pilgrim!
Monday Nov 10th. A long drive to Madaba during which Naj explained Jordanian history and politics. He commented that Muslim women do not wear the veil at Mecca so why wear it at all. The Madaba mosaic map is 6th century AD. The Nile is shown in the wrong direction. Figures were changed during the iconoclastic period but not the gazelle which represents a Christian. Christ as fish. Lovely icons in the 19th century Orthodox church of St George.
An interesting apse Christ not the Pantocreator. A very good lunch.
The view from Mount Nebo was hazy. An excellent museum and this site is Vatican approved - the late Pope visited it in 2000. Mass with lovely Franciscan chalice and vestments. Dom Brendan is helping us trace the exodus of the Israelites from Egypt to the Promised Land. Here Moses saw the Promised Land but was not allowed to cross the Jordan. To a handicapped mosaic workshop. A lovely sunset over the Dead Sea before reaching our spa hotel.